spun goods

[spʌn]

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These yams are produced by carding, dry-combing, French drawing, arid worsted mule spinning. Short, fine wools generally of the inferior qualities are used. The yarns are free from oil and so are easily cleaned and can be dyed in brighter and more even shades than is possible with oil-spun yarns. They are used for knit goods and dress materials.

This term in the knit goods trade when applied to hosiery or underwear denotes goods made of fine worsted yam spun from Saxony or other soft wools.

(See knitting). All yarns used for knitting are termed hosiery yarns in Leicester, but in America only yarns actually used for knitted footwear come under this term. These yarns are much softer than required for weaving. Miscellaneous Yarns - Goat wools, such as llama and alpaca are employed in spinning. yarns for the knitting trade. Vicuna and camel yarns are used to a limited extent. Ramie yarn is specially employed for knitting gas mantle fabrics. Soft spun flax yams have been used for making underwear fabric. Chenille and other manufactured threads are used to a small extent in warp knitting. Composite yarns, such as union yarns - spun from a mixture of wool and cotton fibres; cordon yarns - cotton and worsted singles, doubled together; wool and rayon or spun silk, cotton and rayon or spun silk are largely used to produce self or two-colour effects. Fancy yarns, such as slub yams, voiles, and curled and loop yarns are also employed. Hosiery Yarns (Cotton) include condenser, hosiery, condenser lisle thread, mercerised and sewing cottons. Condenser yarns are spun in coarse counts from low-grade cotton, Indian and American. They are carded, condensed and mule spun, and possess little twist. Hosiery cotton yarns vary considerably in counts and qualities, practically all varieties of Indian, American and Egyptian being used in varying proportions to obtain suitable mixture for quality and price. Cheaper yarns are carded and mule spun. American and Egyptian cotton yarns are combed mainly with the object of removing seed particles. High-class Egyptian and Sea Islands cotton yarns are super-combed. The chief features of a hosiery cotton yam should be: (1) Regularity; (2) cleanliness; (3) fullness. Regularity prevents the making of cloudy fabric, showing thick and thin places. Cleanliness is essential, as the seed particles clog the eyelet hole in the yam guides and cause breakages. Fullness is desirable to cover the loop interstices. Elasticity and pliability are quite as essential as tensile strength. Yams are usually soft spun and if two-fold soft doubled, average twists in two-fold being 2/10's 6¹/₂T., 2/20's 8¹/₂T., 2/30's 10T., 2/40's 16T., 2/80's 20T. Softer twist less 25 to 30 per cent of average (T= turns per inch). Lisle thread is a comparatively hard-twisted and doubly-gassed thread in which there are no projecting fibres. It is always of a two-fold character, and the doubling twist varies from 24 to 34 turns per inch in 2/60's. It is used largely in the manufacture of ladies' hose tops and feet and for lace hosiery. Mercerised yams are used largely in the fancy trade, a comparatively soft twist again being employed. Sewing cottons for seaming, linking and making-up are specially prepared in two to six cord open and reverse twist. Woollen and Worsted Yarns include lamb's wool, wheeling, skein yarns, gala yams (woollens), worsted, crossbreds, fingering, cashmere, dry spun botany (see under each name). Worsted and crossbred yarns of various qualities are used. These yams are spun softly with " hosiery twist." The drawing may be open, cone or French, and the spinning may take place on cap, ring or flyer frames. The chief essentials of hosiery yarn are softness of fibre, fullness, minimum of twist consistent with the requisite tensile strength, regularity, pliability and elasticity. Cashmere Yarns, as used in the knitted goods industry, are spun from short, loose and weak wools as well as from better qualities by French drawing and mule spinning. A small proportion of real cashmere is used for outer garments. In recent years nylon yarns have been largely employed.

Very fine worsted yams from 76's to 100's spun from merino wool. Used for taffetas, poplins. cashmeres and other fine dress goods. Processed on the Continental system and spun on the worsted mule.

An all-cotton cloth, largely made in Nelson and district, principally in 30-in. to 32-in., 90 yards, 72 reed, 36's/38's yarns, and picks varying from 88 to 130 or more per inch. The 5-end satin weave is used with weft face. A good twist is necessary, and a soft spun even weft spun weft way. The cloth is mostly dyed and used for linings, though a great quantity is printed for dress goods. Generally woven with tappet looms, which make a better cloth than where dobbies are used.

The Silk Association of Great Britain and Ireland, Inc., has formulated the following definitions of " Silks ": - (1) Silk means the natural product of the silkworm, whether net, spun, or schappe silk. (2) Woven or knitted textiles and articles made therefrom. Silk goods may only be so called if they contain no other fibre than silk. They may be further qualified as pure silk goods if they contain no tin weighting and no added weight of any kind other than that which is an essential part of dyeing and finishing. (3) The word silk may be used for articles containing silk and other fibres provided it is clearly qualified, as for example, silk warp taffeta, silk warp poplin, silk pile velvet, silk mixture, silk union, etc. (4) Smallwares, certain smallwares containing silks in combination with other fibres (such as Paris bindings, gimps, eyeglass cords, etc.), have been by long established custom known as "silks." Only where there is a clear long established custom may they continue to be described as silk, otherwise the general principles set forth above will apply. The more generally known silk fabrics are as given below: - Armures - Barathea, Loisine, Natte, Ottoman, Roy ale. Repp. Figured Silks - Arras, Broche, Brocatelle, Brocades, Chevron, Chine warp prints. Cote-line, Damassin, Foulard, Lampas, Matelasse, Striped tabaret. Satins - Duchesse, Meteor, Mervelleux, Peau de Soie, Radyimar, Raadames, Radium, Satin mousseline. Satin messaline. Satin lus-mineaux. Satin charmeuse. Satin de Lyon, Satin chine. Satin lumiere, Soleil, Soie de Devil. Twills - Serge, Surah, Sarcenat. Velvet, or pile weaves - Terry velvet frese, Utrecht, Velours de nord. Velours de chiffon, Velours de sabre. Silk warp, wool weft - Bengaline, Cotele, Crepon, Irish poplin, Popeline, Poplinette, Sultane, Sicilienne, Velours Victoria, Veloa-tine. Silk warp, cotton weft - Moirette, Polonaise, Satins, Satinet, Striped linings. Taffetas, plain weaves - Bengaline de Soie, Epingle, Faille Francaise, Glace, Gros grain, Gros de Tours, Gros de Naples, Gros de Suez, Lustring, Pongee, Poult de Soie, Royale, Tabaret, Taffeta mousseline. Taffeta chiffon. Crepe de chine, Ninon, tulle, voile, Marquisette, Moire onde. Moire Faconne, Moire Francaise, Moire Antique.

[sɪlk] 1. 2. [silk] - silkiness
- silkworm [sɪlk] silk /sɪlk/ [sɪlk] 1. 2.

The hair or wool of the goat of that name. More generally known as mohair. The animal originally had its home in Asia Minor. About 1858 it was introduced into Cape Colony, from which country we now get a large supply. The natives of Asia Minor made shawls from the wool, which resembled Cashmere shawls. In colour it is white, average length of hair is 6 to 8 inches, and- has a curly structure. It is a very useful fibre, and largely used by the manufacturers of Astrakhan, wool crepons, plushes and cashmeres; also used in many silk cloths. The French use the fibre in a cloth named "poil de chevre", which has a fine spun silk coloured warp and angora weft. Bradford -imitates this cloth with a fine cotton warp. It has more lustre than wool, but is not so warm. Sir Titus Salt, by introducing the manufacture of goods made from mohair into Saltaire, raised Saltaire into a town from a village.

This term was known in the 16th century, when in the Merchant of Venice Shylock reminds Antonio that he " spat upon his Jewish gabardine," which indicates rather " a long cassock " than a cloak or mantle. Blount writes: "what is a gabardine"? "a rough Irish mantle," " a horseman's cloak," or " a long cassock." Palsgrave has " mantyll, a gabardine." Also known as Gallebardine (Italian) ———————— The gaberdine is a fabric having a whipcord effect made from worsted warp and cotton weft. It is usually woven on 11 staves as at A, in a dobby loom with a fine reed. The warp yarns are good quality botany worsted and well spun to give uniformity of surface in the finished cloth. The weft is twofold good quality cotton. Gaberdines are usually set with about twice as many ends as picks per inch. The following particulars give three typical cloths: - as A. Set 63-in. in the loom to finish 56/7-in. Cotton gaberdines are made in great quantities, 54-in. or wider, with super qualities of two-fold warp and weft. Some of the lower qualities have single yarns or single weft only. The 11-shaft warp face weave is mostly used, but some are made with the 3 X 1 warp twill An example of the better quality is 54-in. finished, 90 yard., 140 ends and 72 picks per inch, 2/60's T., 2/40's W. A popular quality of cotton gaberdine is made 54-in. finished, 90 yards, 172 ends and 100 picks per inch, 2/80's T., and 2/80's combed and gassed Sakel cotton. A lower variety is made 54-in. finished 90 yards, 162-ends per inch 2/60's Egyptian warp and 86 picks per inch of 24's super American weft. Both the worsted and cotton varieties are used for waterproofs and coatings. The dress goods styles are made 54-in. finished, 100 ends and 62 picks per inch 2/50's botany warp, 36's botany weft.

The hair obtained from the Angora goat, and is grown chiefly in Turkey, South Africa, the U.S.A. and Australia. It is lustrous white, fine, wavy and long. The length varies from 4-in. to 10-in. and spins from 28's to 50's quality. It has no felting properties. That from the U.S.A. is much lower in quality than the others, having about 15 per cent more kempy fibre. Mohair is chiefly used in braids, felt hats, linings, plushes, etc., and the coarser kinds for carpets and low-grade woollen fabrics. ———————— The hair or wool of the goat of that name. More generally known as mohair. The animal originally had its home in Asia Minor. About 1858 it was introduced into Cape Colony, from which country we now get a large supply. The natives of Asia Minor made shawls from the wool, which resembled Cashmere shawls. In colour it is white, average length of hair is 6 to 8 inches, and- has a curly structure. It is a very useful fibre, and largely used by the manufacturers of Astrakhan, wool crepons, plushes and cashmeres; also used in many silk cloths. The French use the fibre in a cloth named "poil de chevre", which has a fine spun silk coloured warp and angora weft. Bradford -imitates this cloth with a fine cotton warp. It has more lustre than wool, but is not so warm. Sir Titus Salt, by introducing the manufacture of goods made from mohair into Saltaire, raised Saltaire into a town from a village.

A coarse yarn which is spun from the waste from schappe spinning. Used as weft or for coarse knit goods.

Yarn spun from a mixture of wool and cotton and used principally in France in the lower class of dress goods manufacture.

Dress goods fabric made from worsted warp and silk weft, plain weave and printed. Alternatively, the warp may be worsted and silk doubled yarn with fine hard spun weft of worsted.